Antique Brooch With Old Cut Diamonds in Silver & Gold, c. 1900

Is it a fantastical flower, a fairy, or a dragonfly rendered in diamonds? This brooch, created around the turn of the century, plays with such associations and reflects the era’s fascination with all things ethereal, delicate, and refined. Above a pair of diamond-set leaves, additional old-cut and rose-cut diamonds are arranged in a fan shape, like a sparkling bouquet. They are mounted on so-called knife wires, creating the illusion that they are floating freely. The diamonds are set in silver with a gold backing, and the detachable brooch fitting is likewise made of gold. Originally, it may have been interchangeable with a hair ornament. The brooch fitting, according to its hallmarks, was made in France before 1919. The brooch itself, however, was imported and—judging by its design—originated either in Britain or Germany. A very similar example, set with additional coloured stones, appears in a catalogue by the firm Streeter, then based in Bond Street, London, circa 1899 (cf. ill.). Based on its design, workmanship and the diamond cuts, we date this piece to around 1900.

Estimate:$2,800.11

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